Keindahan keras El Hierro

Pulau terkecil dan paling barat dari tujuh Kepulauan Canary utama, El Hierro masih muda, secara geologis – baru berusia 1,2 juta tahun – dan lanskap vulkaniknya jauh lebih subur dibandingkan tetangga terdekatnya, La Palma dan La Gomera, kata Ben Ross dalam The Telegraph.

Namun, jika “sangat menarik” terdengar menarik, dan Anda cukup sehat untuk melewati jalur yang cukup curam, pulau ini cocok untuk pendakian yang “menakjubkan”. El Hierro berpenduduk jarang dan tidak memiliki bandara internasional – sebagian besar pengunjung tiba dengan feri atau pesawat kecil dari Tenerife – dan meskipun Tenerife menyambut tujuh juta pengunjung pada tahun 2024, El Hierro hanya dikunjungi 26.000 orang, yang sebagian besar adalah orang Spanyol. Saya mengunjunginya dalam tur jalan kaki mandiri selama seminggu dengan Inntravel, yang mencakup akomodasi – di antara tempat-tempat lain, Parador yang dikelola negara di pulau itu dan Balneario Pozo de la Salud, sebuah hotel kecil di tepi pantai yang “menyenangkan”.

Pendakian yang paling “mengesankan” membawa kami (dalam tujuh jam) dari El Mocanal ke La Frontera, dan memberikan pemandangan “epik” dataran El Golfo dan kaldera gunung berapi Fireba, di mana awan “mencurahkan punggung pulau dalam bentuk gelombang”. Puncak El Hierro menjulang setinggi 1.501 meter dan iklim mikro di lereng atasnya menopang area vegetasi yang kontras, termasuk pohon heather raksasa, hutan pinus, dan perkebunan pir berduri. Namun, yang lebih mencolok adalah rerimbunan tanaman juniper yang “berjongkok” seperti patung abstrak di lereng bukit di atas desa terpencil Sabinosa.

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Setiap hari kami menemukan “keanehan baru†, termasuk jejak di mana bebatuan “berputar-putar dengan bentuk cair seperti permen panas†, dan tanah tandus di Punta de la Dehesa, sebuah lanskap “brutal†yang terbentuk akibat letusan tahun 1793. Meskipun “kadal raksasa†di pulau itu sedikit mengecewakan (panjangnya hanya mencapai 70cm), kami bertemu dengan kawanan kadal burung kenari (“lebih menjemukan†dibandingkan sepupu mereka yang tertawan, namun sama “menawan†) menggantikan hal tersebut.

Biaya perjalanan mulai £820 per orang, tidak termasuk penerbangan (inntravel.co.uk).

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